Who Invented the Bra? The Surprising Story Behind It

👙 Who Invented the Bra?

You might think the bra has always been part of the modern wardrobe — but this everyday undergarment has a story full of twists, improvisations, revolutions, and some seriously strange detours. From ancient fabric wraps to wartime spy gear, and from rebellious flappers to feminist protests, the bra’s history is anything but boring.

So… who invented the bra? And why does it matter?

Let’s uncover the weird truth beneath the lace.

🪡 The “modern” bra was born at a party

It’s 1913, New York City. A young high-society woman named Mary Phelps Jacob is getting ready for a fancy ball. But there’s a problem: her corset is ruining the look of her sheer evening gown. It’s bulky, uncomfortable, and showing through the fabric.

So what does she do?

She grabs two silk handkerchiefs, some pink ribbon, and a bit of ingenuity. With help from her maid, she stitches them together into something light, soft, and far more freeing than the stiff undergarments of the time.

Her friends go wild over the idea. Mary patents her creation under the name "Backless Brassiere" — and just like that, the bra as we know it takes its first official step into fashion history.

⛓️ From rib-crushing corsets to breathable silk

Before the bra came into play, the standard undergarment for women was the corset. These tight, rigid structures, often reinforced with whale bones or steel, were designed to cinch the waist and lift the bust — all in the name of beauty.

But corsets were also a symbol of restraint (literally). They limited movement, impaired breathing, and in some cases caused long-term physical damage.

The early 20th century brought social changes: women wanted more freedom — politically, socially, and yes, physically. The bra was the perfect answer.

It allowed movement. It fit under modern dresses. It symbolized change.

💰 From $1,500 to millions: The rise of a quiet revolution

Mary Phelps Jacob eventually sold her bra patent in 1914 to the Warner Brothers Corset Company (no relation to the movie studio) for $1,500.

That might seem like a decent deal — until you learn that Warner made over $15 million from the bra design in the following decades.

Why such a boom?

During World War I, the U.S. War Industries Board asked women to stop buying corsets, which used up to 28,000 tons of steel — material that could be redirected to make weapons and military gear.

That shift gave the bra even more visibility and momentum. It was more than comfortable; it was patriotic.

🏛️ Ancient bras? Older than you think

Here’s the twist: Mary’s invention wasn’t actually the first bra.

Archaeologists have found ancient Roman garments called "strophium" or "mamillare" — essentially fabric bands that women used to bind their chests for support. Athletes and dancers wore similar wraps to allow freer movement during physical activity.

But the biggest shock came in 2008, when researchers at a medieval Austrian castle discovered linen bras dating back to the 1400s. They had cups, straps, and even lace — looking remarkably similar to today’s designs.

The idea of breast support, it seems, isn’t so modern after all.

🧷 Wartime bras: from fashion to espionage

Here’s a lesser-known nugget: during World War II, the American lingerie company Maidenform created “spy bras” for Allied pilots.

These special bras had secret compartments to hide miniature maps, compasses, and escape tools. They were sewn into the linings of undergarments in case pilots were shot down over enemy territory and needed to survive behind enemy lines.

Yes — bras literally went to war.

🔥 Burn it, flaunt it, or ditch it? The feminist split

Fast forward to the 1960s and 70s. The bra becomes a symbol of oppression for many second-wave feminists, who argued that it enforced unrealistic beauty standards and sexualized the female body.

At the 1968 Miss America pageant protest in Atlantic City, women threw bras, girdles, and heels into a “Freedom Trash Can” — a symbolic rejection of female objectification.

Contrary to popular myth, no bras were actually burned at that event — but the phrase “bra-burning feminist” stuck like wildfire in pop culture.

At the same time, the bra was also being reclaimed as a symbol of power and expression. In the 80s and 90s, performers like Madonna brought the bra back into the spotlight, using it as outerwear, armor, and rebellion.

💡 A revolution of comfort — and no-bra days

In recent years, millions of women around the world have begun to question whether they need to wear bras at all. Movements like #NoBra have gained traction on social media, especially during and after the COVID-19 pandemic when comfort became king.

Today, bralettes, wireless bras, and “soft support” styles have taken over the market, while lingerie brands race to offer inclusive sizing, breathable materials, and gender-neutral designs.

For many, the bra is no longer a necessity — it’s a choice.

🎀 The bra today: more than just support

Today’s bras are high-tech. Some offer posture correction, temperature regulation, or sports monitoring sensors. Others are designed for nursing, post-surgery recovery, or gender-affirming support.

Some bras are purely functional. Others are works of art.

There are bras that cost $5 — and bras encrusted with diamonds that cost $2 million.

It’s a garment that continues to evolve, reinvent itself, and reflect the times we live in.

🧠 Final thought: A tiny garment with a giant story

The bra might be small, but its story is huge. It’s been a tool of control, a weapon of liberation, a fashion statement, and a topic of fierce debate.

And whether you wear one, burn one, hide one, or redesign one — you’re taking part in a long, bizarre, and very human saga.

Because behind every bra, there’s not just a body…
There’s a story.

📚 Sources:

1. Smithsonian Magazine – The History of the Bra

2. Vogue UK – How Mary Phelps Jacob Changed Underwear Forever

3. History.com – From Corset to Bra: A Century of Change

4. BBC – The Secret Life of the Bra

5. Journal of Fashion History – The Evolution of Women’s Undergarments